Fast fashion crisis: how did the brands respond?

In 2020, we worked together to ask the biggest UK fashion brands if they will pay their contracts and make sure workers are paid. This is how the brands responded. See how we assessed the brands.

ASOS
ASOS is now honouring all its contracts with its own-brand suppliers. There is no evidence about similar levels of responsible business conduct for other products being sold on the ASOS online platform. Read ASOS’ statement (PDF).

Clarks
Clarks will purchase completed items but some will be purchased as late as October. Some may be subject to Clarks’ newly delayed payment terms. Some unfinished items have been cancelled. There is an intention to use this inventory, but no commitment to do so. Clarks expected suppliers to pay basic wages during lockdown, but has made no commitment itself to supporting these payments. Read Clarks’ statement (PDF).

John Lewis
John Lewis purchased all finished products. But it is silent about payment terms. John Lewis has cancelled and delayed receipt of goods, which will result in suppliers being paid later than expected. John Lewis’ statement does not provide the clarity for a worker or factory who has not been paid whether this is because they are one of the cancelled supply chains. Read John Lewis statement (PDF).

Marks and Spencer
M&S is accepting all completed products, but has delayed payment. M&S is seeking to ensure safe working with factories. Read M&S’ statement.

Next
Next has committed to honour and pay suppliers in full, on normal payment terms, for orders that were due to leave supplier factories up to and including 10 April 2020. Next has taken steps to ensure workers were paid for work completed for Next. Read Next’s statement.

Pentland
Pentland has committed to paying for goods produced for Pentland Brands. Read Pentland’s statement (PDF).

Primark
Primark has committed to pay suppliers for finished orders, orders in production, and orders planned for handover to Primark by 17 April. On 31 July, Primark committed to honour the significant volume of orders due to be delivered after 18 April. It is unclear when these newly timetabled orders are due to be delivered, and therefore how delayed the payment for these orders will be. Read Primark’s first statement. Read Primark’s second statement.

Sainsbury
Sainsburys has honoured the majority of their orders, and will reimburse suppliers for raw materials and work that was in progress. Sainsbury’s statement does not provide clarity for a worker or factory who has not been paid whether this is because they are one of the cancelled supply chains. Read Sainsbury’s statement.

Tesco
Tesco has committed to paying on original payment terms for every clothing order that had been completed or is in production. It is unclear if all the cost of raw materials already purchased will be reimbursed. Tesco has been checking whether wages have been paid correctly, and has expected the supplier to correct situations of underpayment. Read Tesco’s statement.

We assessed each brand’s responses to the crisis on 6 key criteria.

1. Have they made a public statement answering Traidcraft Exchange’s questions on their website?

2. Have they paid suppliers for finished products on the original contractual terms up until 23 March 2020?

3. Have they paid suppliers for spending on material and work on unfinished products up until 23 March 2020?

4. Have workers been paid for work they have done?

5. Are workers being paid while there is no work?

6. Have workers been provided with suitable protective equipment where work is ongoing?

Arcadia Group owns Burton, Dorothy Perkins, Evans, Miss Selfridge, Outfit, Topman, Topshop, and Wallis.

Edinburgh Woollen Mill Group owns Edinburgh Woollen Mill, Austin Reed, Bon Marche, Jaeger, and Peacocks.

Pentland Group owns Speedo, Berghaus, Canterbury, Endura, Mitre, ellesse, Boxfresh, KangaROOS, and Red or Dead. They also license Kickers in the UK. Pentland Group also owns a controlling share of JD Group.

JD Group owns JD Sports, Blacks, Footpatrol, Go Outdoors, Mainline, Millets, Scotts, Size, Tessuti, and Tiso.

Sports Direct/Frasers Group owns Antigua, Campri, Carlton, Crafted, Donnay, Everlast, Firetrap, Flannels, Full Circle, Gelert, Golddigga, Hot Tuna, House of Fraser, Jack Wills, Kangol, Karrimor, LA Gear, Lillywhites, Lonsdale, Muddyfox, Nevica, No Fear, Rock & Rags, Silver Fox, Slazenger, Sondico, SoulCal, Soviet, Title, USA Pro, USC, and Voodoo.